Dunedin – Round 2! – Lackmann Nuggets

Wednesday-Thursday 20-21 February

After our off-the-grid Workaway, we went back for another dose of Dunedin. BTW, it may look like “duned in”, but is pronounced dune-ee-din. We had a nifty hostel overnight, found places to stretch and work out, and soaked up the city’s cool art and architecture.

When Laurence explained we couldn’t stay at her chic cabin for a second night, I immediately phoned the Hogwartz Hostel that had been full the first time we passed through Dunedin. Part of the advantage of returning to the same city was that we got a second chance to book lodging that had sounded cool, but wasn’t available the first time!

The BBH near St. Joseph’s Cathedral (shown above), had been recommended to Todd & the girls by Gina, a grocery checker at the Pak’n’Save in Christchurch. Gina said her brother Gilbert ran it, and even though she didn’t necessarily get along with him, it was a good place to stay. When we checked in, Todd was sure to tell Gilbert about his sister’s referral with no redactions. Of course Todd would do that!

Hogwartz lived up to the recommendation. I wasn’t surprised after reading the website and learning more about New Zealand’s BBH (budget backpacker hostel) model of accommodation…

Ideal for those who prefer the sociable, relaxed environment of a backpacker hostel to a sterile hotel room.
Unlike an hotel, a BBH is a personal experience where you can interact with the owner. The average BBH has just 36 beds, so chances are, the person who owns the hostel will check you in and probably out when you move on. Chances are, you’ll be remembered if you return.
BBHs are all different – no “McBackpacker” experience here! Spoiled for choice, you’ll KNOW you’ve dropped out of your comfort zone into something even better!

…and specifically about Hogwartz…

“The Catholic bishop’s residence since the 1870s, this beautiful old building has now been converted into a wonderfully complicated warren of comfortable rooms and ‘projects’, such as a mezzanine in the dining room and a bathroom in a corridor. The five-bed dorm, the bishop’s old formal dining room, would almost certainly be the grandest dorm room you have ever stayed in.”

The exterior details were nifty, too…

Todd & I were happy to settle into our ‘family dorm room’ – containing a double bed & two singles – whereas the girls soon headed off to a nearby gym & pool facility. They were independent, since it was in walking distance!

In fact, by Thursday afternoon, Torin had done her third swim practice in 24 hours! She swam Wednesday afternoon, Thursday at 6am, and then joined the local team for the Thursday afternoon session. Tevka dove and lifted weights at the same gym. They were happy!

That evening I attended a class at the Dunedin Yoga Studio, also nearby. It was great to stretch out after all the squatting and bending during my thistle-pulling endeavors.

After everyone was back “home” on Wednesday evening, we had a late dinner – a massive steak stir fry created by Todd & Torin, and eaten while we chatted with Maria, a worldly hostel guest from Boston. She was just a few years older than the girls and a fellow Unitarian Universalist! Although Maria was too full to share our stir fry, she did find room for a little dessert with us – peaches and wild blackberries.

After checking out on Thursday, we explored Dunedin’s CBD (Central Business District) on foot. Tevka found a $3 yellow bikini (no polka dots) at an op shop and replenished her henna supply at an Indian store. It was amusing to recognize the shopkeeper by Laurence’s description, “he is usually watching TV and dozing off.” Torin was tickled to find a trendy long-sleeved t-shirt at Kathmandu that sums up her worldview,

“Nothing adventured, nothing attained.”
“Outdoor Adventure World Ready.”

While the girls sought out a bubble tea and wandered through a skate shop, Todd & I discovered another great New Zealand burger establishment.

We decided Queenstown’s Fergburger doesn’t have anything on Velvet Burger!

Once the girls joined us, we set off again, heading to Anzac Square and the picturesque Dunedin railway station.

The inside of the station was also eye-catching, with its mosaic floor.

Everything was tied together with historic train motifs.

We wandered through the Otago Art Society gallery and were duly impressed by the landscape talents of the week’s artist in residence, Murray Ayson. It was fascinating to watch him create spot-on renditions of the stunning New Zealand landscapes, many of which we had visited in person. Such amazing talent!

There were several galleries in the station, with a wide range of paintings. This one caught my eye with its cheeky garden gnome and detailed hydrangea plus the title, “To Dementia and all of his Friends.” Exquisite.

With my thirst for art whetted, we moved on to the Dunedin Public Art Gallery, located in The Octagon – the heart of the city. It seemed to have a higher bar for its acquisitions, but that didn’t necessarily make them more appealing to us! Still, these giant, varied badminton birdies were airy and enticing.

The ShanghART Supermarket left us scratching our heads…

An ‘artful’ reproduction of an entire Asian grocery store, with each package carefully emptied and then displayed. Hmmm….

After seeing our fill of gallery exhibits, I just couldn’t stop. I had my hands on a map of the Dunedin Street Art, project, and towed Tevka & Todd along so we could find enough of the murals to satisfy my curiosity. Torin had already escaped to the pool. 😉

Some of the giant outdoor paintings made me say Wow!”

And others had a deeper message…like this mural that juxtaposed two different peoples who have impacted New Zealand culture and commerce – the Maori from hundreds of years ago and more recent Chinese settlers, forging a connection between the past and present.